See also electric_pwr.html which includes conduit runs. This document is only about the light fixtures , light bulbs, and siwtches that operate them.
Jan-Mar makes fluorescent spherical decorative bulbs with replaceable fluorescent tubes but max wattage is only 13 which is less than a 100 w decorative bulb: Jan-Mar: 900 lumens minus globe loss = 750 lumens vs. 1050 lumens for 100 w decorative. Don't use them as it is already a little dim in the fireside room.
W. key switch is for outside display case lights and flag spotlight. Always on. Supplied by timer in electric basement. Red light should glow when outside lights on but bulb burned out. No need to replace bulb.
The outside lantern is turned on by either the outside switch or the inside switch. They are connected in parallel and both must be off to turn off the outside lantern.
The Sanctuary chandeliers have cylindrical globes (or drum glass) covering each bulb. 8-32 brass screws, 3/8" long hold globes. Fitters (metal bands) hold the glass and the screws are not supposed to ever touch the glass since they are located just above the glass. Make sure that each screw goes thru a hole in the fitter since otherwise it will hit the fitter and may crack the glass if tightened. The holes are not all uniformly spaced in the fitters/fixtures and perhaps each fitter mates with only one (or a few) fixtures. The globes are made of blown glass and are not of exact dimensions: The diameters may have a range and the cross sections may by slightly oval. In 196? the center globes were removed (now stored in kitchen pantry). In 1993 the small globes were removed and stored in the basement. In 1995 a few globes were installed over the balcony. The tops should be painted white for reflection (better than silver which is less reflective).
Large globes: lip od: 10 1/4 - 10 3/8", (fixture id 10 1/2"), globe od 9 3/4", id 9 1/4", length 16 5/8", glass almost 1/4" thick, flat spot on tip about 3 3/4" dia. Lip sticks out about 1/4". Circular fluorescents give a nice halo effect but as of 1995 most are not bright enough (1100 lumens). But LOA makes a 2400 lumen one at 9" dia. which may not fit in all globes. The bulb should be in the lower part of the globe (use extensions) so that more of the light to reach the room. To install, one needs an adjustable "bra" to hold up the globe during installation. Most compact fluorescents will work OK inside them since there is a lot of area to dissipate heat even though the inside of the globe is not ventilated.
Small globes: lip od: 5 1/4", length: 6", max bulb ht. to top of screw-in base (where it joins glass): 4". In 1995 the only fluorescent which would fit was a Phillips 15 watt SLS/RH "Earthlight" which sells for a little over $20. The light should be designed to work inside a globe.
The black stage spotlights (studio lamp with Fresnel lenses) take BTL 500 watt bulbs. The base type is "prefocus". Buy them at a theatrical lighting store such as Call Bros. Productions, Altadena or Angstrom Stage Lighting, Hollywood. Halogen types available.
Switches (in SW corner) From right to left on top row, then from left to right on bottom row:
1. 4 far lanterns 2. 4 near lanterns 3. 2 far center 4. 3 near center 5. stage front row 6. stage middle row 7. stage rear row 8. half of footlights 9. half of footlights 10. Outlet on center of frontal girder 11. Outlets near each end of frontal girder 12. Center pair of floods on frontal girder 13. E & W end pair floods on frontal girder 14. E & W end pair spots on frontal girder 15. Nearby work light (lighted handle).
The Throop Hall Lanterns (actually pendants) in 1994 got 20 mil Lexan sheets (frosted) wrapped around them to diffuse the light. These were purchased from Cadillac Plastics of North Hollywood for $7.50 for a 2'x4' sheet (cut into 2 @ 1'x4' sheets). Some extra sheets are in the upstairs storage room near the restroom. The light bulbs are 27 watt by Lights of America fluorescent FDL27LE. They falsely claim the equivalent of 100 watts of "light" but actually put out 1650 lumens (vs. 1800 for a 100 watt incandescent). Base down they may put out even less. Cost $10. They are non-standard and replacement tubes are not available since they introduced a new model.
As of 1996 there were so many different types of these tubes and so much ignorance among sales people (including some working for the manufacturers) that one needs to study the catalogs before buying anything. There were several different categories of 4' tubes, and if you just ask to buy one they would likely sell you the one of lowest efficiency. Since the cost of electricity is much more than the cost of the tubes, it usually pays to buy the best (and most efficient) tubes.
The most efficient models are 1" in diameter (T-8) and require special ballasts designed for these tubes. The old standard was T-12. The 12 means 12/8 of an inch (1 1/2") dia. The new standard 4-footers are 32 watts and the 8-footers are 59 watts. There are 3 major manufacturers: GE, Osram Sylvania, and Phillips. The names and identifying numbers are: GE: Trimline, F..T8/SP... Sylvania: Octron, FO../... Phillips: Octalume, F..T8/TL... .. = either 32 (32 watt, 48 inches long) or 96 (59 watt, 96 inches long). ... is for the color. Warm white is 830 (GE: X30). Medium white is 835 (GE: X35). Cool white is 841 (GE: X41). These are known as the Sylvania 800 series. The Sylvania 700 series (730, etc.) and the GE SP30, etc. are about 5% less energy efficient and inferior in color rendering index. For 32w the 800 series (as compared to the 700 series) saves $2.40/tube over 15K hrs, but the 800's sometimes cost almost this much more (only worth buying because of better color). This will all become a moot point when existing stocks of the 700 series are sold out since the 700 series is supposedly being discontinued in favor of the 800 series. When will the 900 series appear??
Prices: May 1996: (Co=Courtesy, CED = Consolidated Electrical
Distributors, CW = City Wholesale), CE = Certified Electric
4' (FO32/800 series) CW about $3 ??, Co $5.40, CED $6.06
4' (FO32/700 series) CE $4.06 Co $4.20, CED $4.17
8' (FO96/800 series) CW about $11, Co $12.63, CE $13.81, CED $14.18
8' (FO96/700 series) Co $8.71, CED $9.78
(CED prices for GE brand about = to Sylvania)
Electronic Ballast for 2@8': CED $37 (originally quoted over $100),
CE $42, CW $47.50, Co $70.48
Electronic Ballast for 4@4': CW $37.50, Co $51.35
A motion sensor light is outside the N windows of the N room about 21 ft. above the ground. In 2003 the brand was Intelectron. It's the best model of a brand which also made cheap low quality ones. It's now out of business. In 2003 it's difficult to find motion sensors that operate at 30 ft. which is the distance to the entrance gate where the sensor needs to detect.
The motion sensor has range and photocell adjustment screws. The pointer is a small dot on the side of the screws (not visible if looking down at the head of the screw. The screws are pots which have no stops at each end, so if you turn too far the adjustment jumps from max to min (or conversely). Mid-position is towards the labels (away from the edge). Turn clockwise to increase range or sensitivity. The "test" 1 3 10 switch sets the on-time. For "test" it's only several seconds and makes it operate in daylight. There's a rubber cap for the daylight sensor. Therers also a "manual override bypass" which is best left on to disable manual override (where turning on-off in a certain way will override the standard mode of operation). One can take it apart and clean the lens from the inside since it accumulates soem dust over the years.
For the parking lot lights on the N wall of the sanctuary (and the display case light) the timer is by the N entrance door to the Sanctuary (Timer motor Intermatic T101). These lights will not turn on in the daytime due to an electric eye in series located next to the light over the above door. This electric eye may be broken. Henry House outside lights (including outside hallway lights) controlled by timer in Men's Room. Motion activated lights on N. high on outside wall of Red Room (alias N. Room) can be switched off by switch in E. closet in Red Room.
On the Del Mar lawn are 3 @ electrical boxes mounted on cement blocks. These may have been used in the past for mounting floodlights which lit up the tower and building at night. They likely also supply power to the 2 @ illuminated signs. Some of the conduits to these boxes are feeds from other lawn boxes. The timer is on the W wall in the Electric Basement controls these.
The lights for the stained glass windows on the church exterior are controlled by 2 @ switches to the left of the Pulpit (3 lamps/switch). For the W. facade (Jesus) one must connect a special (4 conductor) extension cord (kept in janitors closed) between the movable light "elevator" and a locked box below. The keys are both in an office file and in the janitors closet. It takes several minutes to crank up the "elevator" by hand.
These window light bulbs are halogen quartz 500 watt: 500t3Q/CL, 120v. To replace them remove cover held on by two lever-clamps (use a putty knife etc. to pry off if still stuck after releasing clamps). Make sure that new bulb is seated exactly in its contacts at each end. To remove/install retract one contact using a lever prong. Don't touch the new bulb with fingers (use a paper towel etc.) A tall stepladder may be used but put supports under ladder feet to level it.
For future retrofit, energy efficient lighting needs to be used. Where color rendering not important, use sodium lamps. Replace incandescents with sodium for parking lot. Exterior hall lighting and patio lighting should be fluorescent.
Sept. 1993: Surveyed with "Real Goods" meter. Due to conduit wiring (apparently no knob and tube wiring) currents are balanced and fields are usually minimal. However the wiring added for the exterior stained glass window lighting creates a field of several milligauss in the S. aisle of the Sanctuary. These wires were run in flexible conduit in the crawl space and strapping the conduits together to obtain more cancellation might help. Also heavy gauge cables (black & white) under the chancel for the organ are not in a conduit.
As expected, there are high fields near the circuit breaker panels, in the electric basement by the service switchboard, and next to the ventilation electric motors in the basement. Thus avoid standing within a foot or so of the circuit breaker panels. Also, survey electric basement before letting children work with the pottery equipment there. About half of this basement (nearest the switchgear) has fields over 2 milligauss.
Certified Wholesale Electric, 3653 San Fernando Rd., Glendale 246-1635 City Wholesale, 2573 E. Foothill Blvd., 795-9171. Gave 10% discount. Consolidated Electrical Distributors, 2031 E. Foothill Blvd., 793-1158 Courtesy Wholesale Electric, 926 E. Orange Grove Blvd., 737-7777 Lighting Gallery, 3749 E. Colorado Blvd., 403-8701. Were helpful in the past. Now seem to sell mostly decorative lighting. Nationwide Lighting and Supplies, 1360 E. Walnut St., 396-6900