DOORS (by David Lawyer, 1994) TWO-WAY DOORS The passageway doors into Throop Hall are two-way but in 1992 a fire inspector required us to make them one-way to provide an emergency exit for Throop Hall. This was a mistake and we should have fought it. The patio doors for Throop Hall provide a good escape route. In case it was necessary to evacuate the sanctuary, one route is thru Troop Hall so two-way doors are desired. The situation where persons would be pushing on these doors from both sides would not last too long since people would exit from the sanctuary exit doors and thus clear the sanctuary side of the two-way doors. If for some reason the patio doors could not be used, the time needed to exit the building would not change if for a while people were pushing on both sides of the two-way doors. DOOR HOLDERS These are sometimes called kickdown doorstops. The best brands are: Baldwin, Ives, and Quality. The 5" ones are the best. Ives makes both low and high quality. Forged brass is supposedly the best. Stanley door holders are made of aluminum and don't have replacement rubber shoes. Baldwin advertises that they make hardware for historical restoration. Their door holder is very expensive (about $30 in 1994). Other brands are Stanley (low quality), Ives (medium quality). In Jan. 1994 we purchased 5@ Quality 5" doorholders from Pasadena Hardware for about $10@ (after 10% discount). Then we bought several more at a higher price. They also sold replacement rubber shoes for them. Quality went out of business in 1996 or 1997 (and so did Pasadena Hardware) so the replacement rubber shoes are not available. National makes a rubber shoe that will work and the hardware store in La Canada on highway 2 carried it. The doors on the W side of Throop Hall are thicker than the passageway doors to the sanctuary so the thicker doors should use the 5" doorstops. But some of these doors have 4" doorstops on them. DOOR BUMPERS Some of the sanctuary doors have horizontal doorstop bumpers which take a 5/16" rubber bumper tip available at some hardware stores. PATIO DOORS: Labels are in a computer file and present the following: For 2@ N. doors: TO LOCK DOOR 1. Make sure the left door is fully closed at the top. If it's not, pull on the chain during the final few inches of closing the door. 2. With the brass lever handle pointing up, yank the right door closed using the handle located above the brass lever. 3. While holding the door tightly shut, rotate the brass lever 180 deg. clockwise until it points down. Don't force the lever. If it will not easily rotate, reclose the door more tightly. 4. Push the bottom bolt in. TO OPEN DOOR Lift up bottom bolt. Rotate brass lever up 180 deg. counterclockwise. For 1@ S. Door: TO LOCK DOOR 1. Close the left door. 2. With the lever handle horizontal, close the right door firmly using the handle located a yard above the brass lever. 3. While holding the door tightly shut, rotate the lever handle 90 deg. counterclockwise until it points up. 4. Push the bottom bolt in. TO OPEN DOOR Lift up bottom bolt. Rotate handle down clockwise until it's horizontal. FIRESIDE ROOM DOOR Original was different and had a glass security window. One used in 1990-2000- fell apart likely due to poor quality glue or gluing. Uses wood dowel pins 3/8" dia by 2 1/4" long. Must buy 2 1/2" long ones and cut them. When regluing, dont glue panels but glue dowels and flat surfaces joined by dowels.