In late 1994, Jim Stiver hired someone to install drain running from the parking lot on the Greene and Greene property to Del Mar. Prior to this, water from their parking lot (not Throop's parking lot) sometimes found its way into Throop's Henry House (rented as a pre-school). The water caused considerable damage since the floor level in the N. end of Henry House is several inches below the outside grade line.
This drain caught the rain water from this parking lot and conveyed it to the gutter on Del Mar Blvd. The pipe is 3" diameter white Vinyl thinwall plastic (as measured at the outlet). It seems that Stiver claimed that it was heavier than thinwall. While it drains someone else's parking lot, the drain is actually totally on Throop's property per the site plan made when Henry House was built. The main sump (water inlet) is at the E end of the N. stairwell of Henry House and abuts the pavement of the parking lot. The pipe from there runs E. to almost the property line. It then turns S. and runs almost to the sidewalk on Del Mar. The exit point is on the W. side of the driveway to the apartments. The elbow turn (about 20 ft. from the parking lot) uses just a short elbow and a snake can't go thru it.
There are also 3 other openings for drain water to enter this pipe. However, they were/are covered by several inches of dirt and leaves put there apparently by gardeners. One intake is just a short distance from the main intake in the parking lot, but on the Henry House side of the fence. Another is several feet to the S. of the pipe elbow (2004: can't find either of these). The third is just before the boundary between the Henry House lot and the Church lot. At this point the pipe crosses into the W. side of the Apartment lot and runs along the W. side of the driveway of the Apartments.
In 2003, it was found completely clogged and a professional drain cleaning company couldn't open it. Roots in the pipe were reported which is not surprising since a row of trees exist over the pipe at the Henry House lot. Of course, a snake for cleanout can't navigate the elbow in the pipe. One task which needs doing is to replace this elbow with a wide sweep elbow. However, the part of the pipe from the last inlet to the outlet by the Del Mar sidewalk worked in 2003 (water from a hose freely ran thru it).
Under the patio is a cast iron 4" drain which drains the patio, the downspout on NE corner of the church, and the fountain. The run from the patio gate to the Del Mar sidewalk is 4" clay pipe located just to the E. of the cement walkway-stairway (based on snake length). Just a couple of feet N of the sidewalk near the property boundary is a transition from clay to cast iron pipe. This cast iron (no hub) pipe runs diagonally to connect to the drain which exits at the curb.
To this drainage system feed 2 downspouts: 1. next to the back door of the kitchen, 2. on SE corner of church. Garden hoses can't be pushed all the way thru it but a power snake made it thru. The fountain has a 1 1/2" plastic drain which eventually connects to the 4" pipe.
This drain get a lot of sand that comes from the roof shingles. Thus it's frequently been clogged with sand which has not been washed out. The line from the curb outlet has a Y in it under the sidewalk so that putting a hose up it only reaches the downspout on the S side of the building and doesn't take the Y branch to get to the patio.
In 2003 a professional drain cleaning company was unable to open the clogged pipe. In Jan. 2004, after explaining the situation to "Bubbles Professional Plumbing Services", they thought that no drain cleaning service could clean out the sand, but that it would be possible to do-it-yourself using two hoses: one to supply water to stir up the sand and another to such out the sand.
As of 1991-7 (and likely also prior to 1991) the S. part of the patio doesn't drain properly. It has a low spot and forms a small pond when it rains. If any of the edging stones along the S. patio garden are broken, this water will flow into the S. patio garden. During heavy rains, such rainwater seeps under the building and creates a pond under Throop Hall that tends to let the building sink into the mud. In 2003, vandals broke this edging.
A small "dam" about and inch or two high was put near the bottom of the exterior stairway in 1994 to prevent flow into the garden area. This dam overflowed during heavy rains so in 2003 the height of it was raised about an inch. The flow into the garden from the patio may be high since a downspout from the roof (by the S. patio door) empties its water directly into the "ponding" area of the patio. A better fix is needed.
There are two more drain pipe outlets along the Del Mar curb which drain the S. side of the sanctuary roof. There are also a pair of drain pipes which convey water from the drain in parking lot to Los Robles. On the S. side of the sanctuary there are several downspouts some of which are concealed inside the walls of the building. The drain pipes under the Del Mar lawn have been clogged since at least 1990. They are still clogged in 2004 but some are broken so that water gets out into the lawn.
Once erroneously thought that the E drain from the S aisle roof connected to the sewer but it doesn't. But this is likely just the sewer line from the upstairs toilet.
The heat-vent basement has a sump pump in the floor drain with the discharge pipe visible on the S. wall. It discharges into the sink in the electric basement. It is operated by a water-jet (non-electric, powered by water pressure) and was working as of 1994. The bottom of the sump is dirt so that standing water in it eventually sinks into the ground. This sump also once served as a drain for the air washer (now broken).
Installed in the 1990s. Adjust flow by screw behind cap (remove cap) on side opposite handle (no need to shut off building water).
Crane. Date 1920's. China is Creta Victorware. Shutoff takes 9/32" square key. American Parts Master may have some parts for it. Before trying to turn valve housing with a wrench, support china bottom with a padded jack (and use penetrating oil) to prevent fountain from being ripped off the wall. Takes 3/8 L thick washer and small cylindrical packing for a stem of about .4" dia. Packing cyl. thickness slightly over 1/16" => OD a little over .4 + 2 x 1/16 = 0.525". Hard to find this size but you may buy one a little larger and whittle/sand it down. Pry out thick metal washer to replace packing. Spring pressure should hold this metal washer in place. If replacement packing cyl. is too long, then there will be too much spring pressure since spring presses against packing (thru metal washer).
(See "Sewers" for kitchen drain lines.)
1. Dishwasher: Stero model SDRA made in Petaluma, CA. See files dw_maint (Dishwashing Machine Maintenance & Repair) and dw_oper_short (Dishwashing Machine Operation, Short), and dw_oper_long. There is also a factory supplied "Instruction & Parts Manual".
2. Garbage Disposal: In-Sink_Erator Model 758. Many parts not available in 1992. Local distributor (310) 531-2203. If it sticks, use Liquid Wrench and then turn with a wood 2x4 using a pipe type wood clamp on the 2x4 to get say a 3 ft. long lever. There is a mixer under the counter to mix hot and cold water for the hand sprayer but it is now set for all-hot water.
3. Solenoid Water Valve (for garbage disposal). JE = Jackes Evans model J400 (date code B5 new model is GP400). To remove the top part, loosen the screw in the center of the nameplate. Then turn the large brass "nut" with arc joint pliers. If you forgot to loosen the screw, something may break. 1992: A repair kit was available thru George T. Hall, N. Hollywood, 766-3880, cost: $26. JE valves were made by Parker Hannifin, Fluid Control Division, New Britain, CT 06051. As of 2004 they had been discontinued and no repair kits were available.
There is a solenoid plunger in the top part that looks like a hex nut but it's much thicker. This nut has a rubber washer in the center, 3/16" diameter (may need replacing, where to buy?). Calcium deposits cause the nut to stick preventing the value from turning on (no water when the garbage disposal is on). This "nut" should fall out by gravity, revealing a hidden spring on the other end of it. If it doesn't, then it's likely frozen by calcium. So pull it out and clean out the white calcium deposits. To pull the nut out, one might pound/push it in about 1/16" to break it loose, pry with tiny screwdrivers.
4. Main kitchen sink faucets: Chicago Faucet
The tiny pump & motor is about the size of a fist. Ours is made by Beckett. It is loose in the sump. It uses 120 volts @ .3 amps supplied by a waterproof cord. Cost in 1993 was about $40. To find one, see the listings under "fountains" in the yellow pages phone directory. Ours is rated at 80 gal/hr for a 1 ft. lift. This becomes only 60 gal/hr for 2 ft. For a 4 ft. lift (our fountain is about this when full) it's only 35 gal/hr. However, due to small copper tubing in the line the actual flow is only about 15 gal/hr. New motor-pumps come with a waterproof line cord attached. Since the line cord end connection is located in an electrical box to the left above the water level, no seal is needed around the line cord.
This copper tubing is 1/4 inch with standard wall thickness in the sump but with thin wall thickness in the head. Perhaps this is due to a repair being made at the bottom without using thinwall copper tubing (not available in 1993).
The pump outlet is 1/8 inch pipe thread. If it breaks off, one way to repair it is by drilling it out a bit and inserting (force fitting) 1/4 inch copper tubing into it. To this outlet is connected a petcock which opens into the sump. By partially opening it, some of the output of the pump flows directly into the sump (bypassing the fountain head) thereby reducing the flow. This is the method of flow regulation.
Be sure that the turn-on switch just to the N. of the fountain is water tight. The electric power comes from an outlet in the SE Stage Basement room which has a ground fault interrupter outlet. Thus any minor short to ground will trip this interrupter.
The sump in the back of the basin (or pond) contains no drain, but there is a drain at the W. end of the pond. There is no valve for this drain. To drain the basin, remove the overflow pipe or plug (1 1/2 inch diameter pipe threads) which is screwed into this drain. When the pond is empty don't leave the drain open (unless it's covered by a grate or screen) or else kids/vandals may put large rocks down it and clog it.
The water stream tends to splash as it hits the plate just below the head. This is because the water level is too shallow near the edge of the plate. The splashing water gets out of the pond. Perhaps it was intended to squirt the water out over the plate (and to use the plate only to catch dribbling should the line become clogged. However, due to the restricted line, it will not squirt this far unless a "bushing" is put in the mouth to reduce the stream diameter. Another fix would be to try to direct the flow more downward from the head. A third fix is to set low flow so that it doesn't spurt out much from the head. But none of these fixes are good since people like to see and hear water splashing.
To control algae formation do one or more of the following: 1. Run fountain frequently. 2. Put fish in pond (the city of Pasadena gives away Mosquito fish). If neither of the above is done, one could either put chlorine in the water to prevent algae, or drain it. The same holds for the sump which has no drain (bail out water with a cup and finally use a rag/sponge to get the last bit out). A transparent cover for it which is contoured to drain rainwater would be nice.
This faucet is known as an SOT type. Brand: Mueller. It's superior to any currently available since it uses a 1/2 " washer and thus delivers a high flow rate. The original special washer doesn't seem to be available. Instead, use a beveled, flexible, and thick 1/2" washer. Sand a bevel on the flat side of the washer so that it will fit into the holder (which is not flat like most other faucets). The seat is not removable and can be refinished using a small piece of very fine (600 grit) sand paper (for metal sanding). Use superglue to glue it to your finger tip.
There are 4 of these: patio, Los Robles, S. of Sanctuary, and Del Mar (outside basement). All except the Del Mar one have a washer-holder that rotates so that the washer doesn't rotate with respect to its seat. This gives the washer much longer life. Such garden valves are hard to find today, and are likely not even being made.
Chicago Faucet push button valve (no longer made). Uses standard Chicago washer and seat. The seat tends to get deposits on it and leak after a few years. This is because the washer doesn't clean the seat by rotation. The rubber cup washer is 333-040JKNF and costs about $2.50 (2002).
Shut off valve of unknown brand: stem is about .395" while the dia. of the threaded part of the stem is .795". Thread pitch 1/8". Hard to find. Existing replacement stem is a little too small.
To take apart the push button valve, unscrew the 1 1/4" bonnet nut and pull out. Don't pull outward too hard as the shaft that is being pulled on is only about 3/16" dia. and may break. If you got it out, go to next paragraph. But if it doesn't pull out you may need to take off the entire valve by unscrewing the vertical main pipes. Then when it's off, use a small rod to rotate the cylindrical body. Best to use a rod with a small bend near the tip. To rotate, insert the rod into the threaded hole where the bottom pipe went and rotate while pulling/prying outward on the Cyl.body. Use penetrating oil. Finally, turn cyl. body with pliers when you are able to get space to encircle it with pliers.
To adjust the on-time (to say 7 sec.), turn the nut which holds the rubber cup washer on the stem. To hold the screw for this nut stationary you may insert a nail (or the like) in one of the side holes. Before inserting the nail depress the button while looking thru a side hole and align a 2nd hole with it (may need to rotate a little). Then insert the nail thru both holes to lock them together.
Leakage past the seal due to nut looseness determines the delay. The looser it is, the shorter the on-time. Put some thread locker on the nut to lock it in place since it is not on tight. Don't try to remove the piston chamber behind the main body as it may break. Put grease on cyl. body before assembly so it will be easier to remove next time.
There are 2 antique toilets in the women's restroom. Each is a low tank toilet with the tank mounted on the wall and the inlet hole on the top of the toilet bowl. In 2004 replicas of wall-mounted tank toilets were being sold so it's nice to keep them for their antique appearance. Each toilet tank is connected to the to toilet bowl by a 2 inch "tank offset" pipe. The standard amount of offset is 1 1/2" or 2" which are the only offsets available on the Internet in 2004. It's also called a "spud offset flush tube" at a website named "DEA Bathroom Machineries" (has 1 1/2" offset).
For the W. toilet this offset is 2" diameter chromed brass tubing (like that of a J trap under a sink but different in shape and diameter). For the E. toilet, the offset is a 3-piece assembly with the offset proper made of thick brass but each end of this offset consists of about 1 1/2" of 2" brass tubing which was originally soldered in place but in 2004 was put together with epoxy glue instead of solder. The W toilet has about a 1 1/2" offset. For the E toilet, the offset pipe is 2 5/16" but it should be 2 11/16", so 3/8" wood shims were placed behind the wall tank in 2004 so as to make the offset align properly. Actually, the 3/8" should have been about 5/16" as the 3/8" has slightly over-compensated. The non-standard offset of 2 11/16" is due to incorrect positioning of the lead sewer closet bend (the 4" lead pipe under the floor) when the building was built. This resulted in incorrect positioning of the toilet bowl from the wall. Also, the location of the 2" outlets on bottom of the tanks is slightly different (the tanks are not identical).
The offsets use a 2" slipnut connections at each end to 2" brass pipe threads. The top threads are part of the overflow-tube/valve-seat assembly and take a rubber "Mansfield spud washer" in the toilet bowl. The bottom threads are part of a "spud" which takes a rubber "flat spud washer". Tightening the locknut expands this spud washer so that it fits tightly in the bowl opening.
The E toilet offset may be removed without removing the tank: loosen the bottom spud locknut and slipnuts. At the bottom you'll have to loosen each nut a little at a time. Then push down the spud threads until they are almost all inside the toilet bowl, push up the offset and swing it towards the wall. The W offset wasn't removed in 2004 so it's not clear if this can be removed without removing the tank.
The E toilet bowl has been set in 2004 using polyurethane caulk instead of a rubber gasket or wax ring. A 3/4" thick 4" rubber gasket was too thick. The thickness of the seal is perhaps 1/8"-1/4" and the wax seals are way too thick. The flange is brass and it was just put over the lead closet bend pipe without soldering when the building was built. Then the lead pipe end was pounded with a hammer to bend it over the flange thereby forming a small flange in the lead pipe. This lead flange is what seals and it's very rough and not at all wide or flat. The width of the "flat" surface is as small as 1/8" so it's a poor sealing surface. That's why caulk was used. The original seal was plumbers putty, but such putty could crack/leak with shifts in the building due to earthquakes, etc. However, the putty was applied to both the lead flange and the brass flange to make a 1" wide sealing surface.
In 1995 the all-plastic ones were Amway. No parts available. Ones with a clear plastic bulb are Continental D505 and cost under $10 (1992). They are not labeled due to the low quality but Continental does put their name on higher quality soap dispensers such as model 706.
The sewer system is called DWV = Drain-Waste-Vent system in "Reader's Digest Complete Do-it-yourself Manual". Thus a sewer pipe is also called a drain pipe (or drain line). The main sewer pipe (4") feeds the city sewer under Del Mar Blvd. This main church sewer exits the church underground just to the E. of the exterior door of the Electric Basement. There is a cleanout Y next to the basement sink. Just inside this door to the E. may be seen a branch sewer pipe rising vertically from the basement floor to serve the women's restroom. The main sewer is buried under the floor of the Electric Basement and runs N-S. It is buried in the crawl space behind the crawl space access door of the Electric Basement.
A branch drain-pipe rises up into the crawl space just N. of the Electric Basement to serve the kitchen. The main sewer line continues on under Throop Hall to serve Henry House. It runs in a trench which was never filled in (as of 1995). A branch runs W. to serve the Choir Room and the Mens Restroom (the tee is likely underground). Most (but not all) of the branch sewers runs in the crawl space are visible (not buried). There are many cleanouts.
The sewer line to Henry House was constructed under the Throop building long after the Church was built. The trench made for it was never completely filled in. One foundation pier was removed (near the electric basement) and never replaced.
Some brass cleanout plugs under the kitchen take a 7/8" hex socket wrench to remove them. The socket fits very tight and must usually be pounded on with a hammer. Using a 29/32 socket for plumbing fixtures didn't work. Use Liquid Wrench to loosen. It's not clear whether the nominal size is 7/8" or 29/32". The choir room toilet has a cleanout which is mostly burried in the dirt in the crawl space, accessible via a trap door in the SE corner of the Choir Room floor.
The Choir Room Toilet 4" cast iron sewer pipe runs E-W under the S aisle of the Sanctuary. It's visible if one crawls into the crawl space opening about 10 ft. E of Choir Room exterior door. To the W of here it's above ground but to the E of here it's underground. It enters the ground gradually just inside the crawl space opening. A 4" side branch from this pipe run serves Men's Restroom on the ground floor. The tee for this branch is underground and the pipe to the Mens Restroom gradually emerges from underground about half-way between the S wall of the church and the Men's Restroom.
These 2" drain lines sometimes clog up. The drain line from the sink merges with the drain line from the dishwasher/disposal at a point located under the rear of the public telephone room. This merger point is about 20 ft (snake distance) from the N exterior cleanout plug (27 ft. ? from the E exterior cleanout plug). In the 1990's clogs have occurred just beyond the point of merger (a Y) and just before it on the drain line for the kitchen sink. If both lines back up, then the clog is beyond the Y. The cleanout for this Y faces straight up so that one can't catch water flowing out of it in a pan.
This Y is actually 2@ Y's put together: Into a vertical run of 2" pipe is put a Y with a cleanout plug on top. The branch at about 45 deg. has the base of a second Y put into it. Now the two branches of the 2nd Y are heading upward too steep so gentle-turn elbows are inserted so as to give the proper slope to these branches. Thus if the cleanout plug is removed, only the vertical pipe may be cleaned. The restriction may well be in the 2nd Y which will be hard to clean since it can't be rodded out with a straight rod due to the elbows. The straight section of the 2nd Y goes to the dishwasher so to cleanout to the down-pipe try a snake in this branch.
There are many other cleanouts for the kitchen. Two are on the exterior walls (E and N) of the kitchen and thus have easy access. But these have a couple of elbows in them at the start which interferes with cleaning (a 1/2" snake went thru the N one but not the E one). The E. one is located at the same level as an inch below the bottom of the sink so that if the line is clogged standing water may be seen in the sink drains even if the E cleanout plug is removed. Two more cleanouts are in the crawl space under the sink and another one is in the crawl space under the dishwasher but it has been placed on an elbow. Some of the plug nuts are 7/8" hex and if tight need a 6 point socket and liquid wrench to loosen.
The original lines are 2" cast iron. Then from the above Y towards the garbage disposal/dishwasher is a 2" ABS plastic pipe. It was installed in 1996 by Richard Mazon's son-in-law due to a leak in the old cast iron pipe. The couplers are exposed rubber couplings with no metal sheathing (bad). Both cast iron and plastic drain lines under the floor change to copper shortly before they enter the walls. The copper may have been installed when the kitchen was remodeled. The drain lines (when accessed from the exterior cleanout plugs) have low- radius copper elbows so that a garden hose inserted from the outside will not go in far. A snake will work but a large snake could damage the thin copper elbows. Thus its best to rod-out the lines from the cleanouts in the crawl space. Access to the kitchen crawl space is from the electrical room of the basement.
The urinal has 2" lead trap with a drain plug which has been wrapped long ago with many turns of tape (was it leaking?). This trap is soldered in place and doesn't come apart. It becomes a 2" cast iron pipe (cleanout plug takes a 7/8" hex socket). The lavatory drain is lead which enters the 2" cast iron pipe via a Y. The toilet has a 4" lead "closet bend" which connects to a 4" cast iron pipe (also with a cleanout plug taking a 1 1/4" ? hex socket).
See "Drinking Fountains" heading for drinking fountain.
1. Gooseneck Fillers (Chicago Faucet): O-rings 3/4" ID, 7/8" OD, (1/16" dia.) (15/16 OD will not fit). To remove body: Twist out with pliers. Aerator threads are 13/16 x 24 tpi. Chicago Faucet also makes a 13/16 x 27 and most other brands are 13/16 x 27. If it doesn't screw on easily by hand, don't use it. Claim made that Chicago faucet doesn't make replacement screens. The screen they show in their catalog is a screw-on one which doesn't fit in aerators. Aerator needs periodic cleaning.
2. Glass Filler (Chicago Faucet): 313-040JK is Rubber Ring, 313-002JK is Lever Plate $5.60 (1993; is threaded & requires no nut).
One in Women's room needs a 14" Mansfield ballcock so as to be higher than the overflow in order to meet code. Fluidmaster (brand) will not go high enough. When replacing don't forget to buy float ball and make sure the ball doesn't interfere with flapper. Put water bottles in tanks to conserve water. Also the tank lid needs replacing.
The water heater is in the furnace room of the utility basement. Just above the water heater is a mixer valve (water tempering valve) which mixes hot and cold water for all hot water faucets. Only the dishwasher gets undiluted hot water. If the check valve (Nidco brand) which feeds it (just above the water heater) malfunctions, a cross connection will be established between the hot and cold water supplies resulting in hot water in the cold water pipes. To free a stuck check valve, remove both plugs, remove pivot parts and clean. Does a good lube exist for it? Also remove any sediment or deposits stuck on seat. A temporary fix is to turn off the cold water feed to the mixing valve.
All water piping is galvanized steel. The 2" meter with a handle shut-off is below the Del Mar sidewalk. A 2" pipe feeds the church and runs under the building to the SE room of the stage basement thru a 2" valve which supplies Henry House. Just beyond the water meter at the wall of the building, a 3/4" line for a garden faucet and sprinkler valve taps into the 2" line. On the ceiling of the Furnace Basement, smaller pipes branch off the 2" main to supply the water heater, the kitchen and the women's restroom.
A 1 1/4 " branch pipe taps into the 2" main in the crawl space and heads W to supply the sprinkler system (and the choir room). It runs W under the S aisle of the sanctuary. A 1 1/4" tee at a crawl space opening feeds the Del Mar sprinklers. At the front of the Chancel the 1 1/4" pipe tees to the N but continuing due W (via a reducer bushing) is a 3/4" water supply pipe for the Choir room
An old water meter box exists on Los Robles for Henry House but is not being used (no meter in it). The water pressure (1993) is about 55 psi.
Near the entrance to the utility basement is a 2" tee on the main line the 2" branch which feeds a "manifold" of 2@ 2" tees. There are thus 3@ 2" outlets which all have reducers on them and feed 2@ 1" pipes (water heater inlet, kitchen supply) and 1@ 3/4" pipe. There is a leak in the manifold between the 2@ 2" tees: on the 2" nipple on the threaded part. The leak is in the grove of the thread and was fixed by clamping a pad to it with a stainless clamp. May have used Teflon packing as a pad.
Retailers: (see also hdw_cos file)